Side-Yard Camper Parking: What to Measure and Clear Before You Move

A side yard is rarely as roomy as it looks from the driveway. Before you move the trailer an inch, confirm four things: the gate opening is wider than the camper with room to spare, nothing overhead is lower than the roofline, the whole route is level and firm, and there is enough space to make the turn off the driveway.

Here is how to check each one, working from the driveway back to the parking spot.

Write down the camper's real dimensions

Measure the camper as it sits today; accessories add up.

• Widest point: include the awning, grab handles and anything bolted to the side.
• Highest point: rooftop air conditioner, vents, antennas, solar panels or a roof rack.
• Length: coupler to rear bumper, plus any bike rack.

Start at the gate

Measure between the gate posts with the gate fully open. A panel that will not swing all the way back, a latch or a hinge can take inches off the usable width.

Example (hypothetical): a camper is 8 ft at its widest point and the gate posts are 9 ft 6 in apart. That leaves about 9 inches per side if the trailer is perfectly centered. That can work on a straight approach, but not if the camper is still turning as it enters.

If the margin is tight, remove a gate panel for move day and put a spotter at each post.

Look up along the whole route

Walk the path and look up at the height of the camper's roof:

• Roof eaves, gutters and downspouts that stick out from the house
• Tree branches
• Wires running from a pole to the house, cable lines and outdoor lights
• Wall-mounted AC condensers, meters and hose reels that narrow the path

Never try to squeeze a camper under or past a utility line. If one crosses the route lower than you are comfortable with, choose a different spot or contact your utility provider before moving the trailer.

Look down at the surface change

Most side yards are not paved all the way back. Where the driveway meets gravel, pavers or lawn, there is often a lip or a soft spot.

• Note every transition and how high the step is.
• Look for sprinkler heads, septic lids and utility covers a tire could crush or drop into.
• Lawns soften after rain or watering; wait for a dry day.

Our guide to choosing a trailer dolly by surface explains how each surface changes the job.

Check that it is actually level

Side yards often slope away from the house for drainage, and a grade that looks flat can still get a camper rolling. Check it with a level on a straight board at several points, including the gate opening.

Manual trailer dollies are for level ground only. Do not use one on any incline or decline. If part of the route slopes, use the tow vehicle for that stretch, re-grade the path, or pick a different parking spot.

Plan the turn off the driveway

The swing from the driveway into the side yard is often close to a right angle. Before you start:

• Mark the arc. Use cones to show where the tires should travel so the camper enters the gate straight.
• Know your axles. A single-axle camper pivots more easily. A tandem-axle camper scrubs its tires sideways in a tight turn and takes noticeably more force. Plan the widest arc the driveway allows.
• Check tire pressure. Inflate the camper's tires to the manufacturer's recommended pressure. Soft tires add resistance on every surface.
• Line up early. Finish the turn on the driveway, then roll straight through the gate.

Bring help, and give everyone a job

A dolly's capacity rating does not mean one person can move every camper within it. Surface, axle setup and distance all add effort. For larger campers, plan on a helper pushing at the frame plus spotters at the gate posts and the rear corner that swings widest. Agree on one clear word for "stop."

Once it is parked

When the camper has come to a complete stop in its spot, switch on the dolly's hold brakes. They keep a stopped trailer in place, but they are not designed to stop a trailer that is moving or rolling. Chock the camper's wheels before you unhitch the dolly or walk away.

Which dolly fits a side yard?

Match the dolly to the surface and to the camper's tongue weight, not its total weight. If that distinction is new, read tongue weight vs. trailer weight first.

• Paved side yard or smooth pavers: the Trailer-Tug 3.0 is built for hard surfaces such as concrete and asphalt and is rated for up to 3,500 lbs of tongue weight.
• Gravel, grass or dirt: the Monster-Tug is our off-road dolly, with 13x6.50-6-inch flat-free wheels and a rating of up to 1,200 lbs of tongue weight. Some larger travel trailers carry more tongue weight than that, so measure yours before you plan a lawn or gravel route.

Neither includes a hitch ball; both take one with a 1-inch shank, such as our 2" Hitch Ball for 2-inch couplers.

If your camper is going into a garage rather than a side yard, our garage parking checklist walks through indoor clearances. Not sure which fits? Contact us with your camper's tongue weight, axle setup and route, and we will help you work it out.