Hooking Up a Camper to a Trailer Dolly (and Unhooking It) in the Right Order

Most hitching trouble with a trailer dolly comes from doing the right steps in the wrong order. For a camper, the safe sequence is short: level ground and wheel chocks first, then the dolly, then the coupler, and the chocks come out last. Unhooking is the same list run backward. Below is each step, why it sits where it does, and what changes for a camper compared with a small utility trailer.

Before you start: three quick checks

• Ball size matches the coupler. The ball diameter is usually stamped on the coupler. The Trailer-Tug dollies do not include a ball; they take any hitch ball with a 1-inch shank. Our accessories guide covers the ball and the Stabilizer in more detail.
• Tongue weight is within the dolly's rating. The Trailer-Tug 3.0 is rated for up to 3,500 lbs of tongue weight on hard surfaces such as concrete and asphalt. The Monster-Tug is rated for up to 1,200 lbs of tongue weight and is built for gravel, dirt, grass and uneven ground. If you have not measured your camper's tongue weight, start with our tongue weight explainer.
• The spot is level. Manual dollies are for level ground only. If the camper sits on a sloped driveway, use the tow vehicle to bring it onto level ground before switching to the dolly.

Hooking up: six steps in order

1. Chock the camper's wheels

Do this before anything touches the coupler. Once the camper is off the tow vehicle and sitting on its jack, chocks are what keep it from creeping while you work at the front.

2. Raise any leveling or stabilizer jacks

Many campers have corner jacks that are lowered at camp. They must be fully up before the camper rolls. Leave the tongue jack down; you still need it.

3. Set the dolly's mount height and park it with the hold brakes on

The Trailer-Tug 3.0 has an adjustable ball mount. Set it so the ball sits just under the coupler with a little room to spare, then roll the dolly into position and switch the frontal brakes on so the dolly stays put while the coupler comes down. Those brakes are hold brakes: they keep a stopped dolly and trailer in place. They are not designed to stop a trailer that is already rolling.

For tandem-axle campers, mount height matters for more than clearance. Our Instructions / Specifications page notes that adjusting the mounting height higher or lower can float the front or rear axle, which can make turning easier. If turning is the hard part for you, see our tandem-axle turning tip.

4. Lower the coupler onto the ball and latch it

Crank the tongue jack down slowly until the coupler seats fully on the ball. Close the latch and insert the pin or lock the way your coupler maker specifies. A coupler can look seated without being latched, so check it by eye and by hand before you raise the jack.

5. Raise the tongue jack all the way

Retract the jack foot fully so it cannot catch on the ground or a threshold as you move.

6. Brakes off, chocks out, then move

Switch the hold brakes off and pull the chocks only when your helpers are in position. Keep the chocks within reach; you will need them again at the end.

Unhooking: the same list, backward

1. Bring the camper to a full stop on level ground.
2. Switch the hold brakes on and chock the camper's wheels.
3. Lower the tongue jack until it takes the weight off the ball.
4. Open the latch, then keep cranking until the coupler lifts clear of the ball.
5. Turn the hold brakes off and roll the dolly out.
6. Leave the chocks in place for as long as the camper is parked.

An example of where the order matters

Hypothetical example: a camper owner unhooks on a driveway pad and pulls the dolly out before chocking, planning to "grab the chocks in a second." Even on ground that looks flat, a small lean or a soft tire can let the camper shift on its jack. Chocking first takes only a moment and closes that gap.

A few camper-specific habits

• Weight moves around. Full water tanks, batteries, propane and cargo near the front can raise tongue weight. Recheck it after a big change to how you load.
• Push, don't pull, when backing. When pushing the camper back, use the dolly's rear rubber bumper to keep weight on the rear wheels, and do not bring the handle toward you while pushing.
• Capacity is not effort. Staying within the rating does not mean one person can move every camper. Surface, axle setup and tire pressure all change how hard it is. Bring a helper for larger campers and a spotter whenever sightlines are poor.

Not sure which dolly fits your camper?

If your camper lives on a concrete or asphalt pad, the Trailer-Tug 3.0 is the one to look at. If it is parked on gravel or grass and the tongue weight is within 1,200 lbs, look at the Monster-Tug. For anything in between, our surface guide walks through the choice, or contact us with your camper's tongue weight and setup.